How to Store Patio Furniture for Winter (By Material)

Why Proper Winter Storage Matters

Patio furniture is built for sunshine, not for months of freeze-thaw cycles, snow load, and winter moisture. Leave it out unprotected and you will pay for it in spring: cracked wood, rusted frames, mildewed cushions, and wicker that has gone brittle. A single afternoon of proper storage in fall preserves thousands of dollars of furniture and means your patio is ready the moment warm weather returns.

The right method depends on the material — wood, metal, wicker, and fabric all have different enemies. This guide covers each one, plus how to choose covers and where to store everything.

When to Store: Timing It Right

• Start when nighttime temperatures regularly dip near freezing, or when you stop using the patio for the season — whichever comes first.
• Do not wait for the first snow. Wet leaves, frost, and cold rain do damage long before snow arrives.
• Check the forecast: if an early hard freeze is predicted, prioritize bringing in cushions and covering furniture immediately — cushions are the most vulnerable items.
• Umbrellas should come down at the first sign of strong fall winds, regardless of temperature — a wind-caught umbrella can damage itself and anything nearby.

Step 1: Clean Everything Before Storage

Never store dirty furniture — grime, pollen, and food residue breed mildew and stain over winter:

• General wash: mild dish soap, warm water, and a soft brush or sponge. Rinse thoroughly.
• Let everything dry completely — ideally a full sunny day. Storing damp furniture is the fastest route to mildew and rust.
• Inspect as you clean: tighten loose bolts, note wobbly joints, and touch up scratches now. Winter is also the time to order replacement parts so they arrive by spring.
• Remove and separately store cushions, umbrella canopies, and any fabric accessories.

Wood Furniture: Teak, Cedar, Acacia, and Eucalyptus

• Clean with soap and water; for gray weathered teak you want to restore, use a teak cleaner per the product directions.
• Decide on finish: teak and cedar can be left unfinished (they will weather to a silver-gray patina — purely cosmetic) or treated with teak oil or sealant to preserve color. If you oil, do it before storage so it cures.
• Never wrap wood tightly in plastic. Trapped moisture causes rot and mildew. Use breathable covers or store uncovered in a dry, ventilated space.
• Keep wood off bare ground — store on a patio, deck, or blocks, even under cover, to prevent moisture wicking up through the feet.
• Acacia and eucalyptus are less naturally weather-resistant than teak — these benefit most from covered or indoor storage.

Metal Furniture: Aluminum, Wrought Iron, and Steel

• Aluminum: the easy one — it does not rust. Clean it, dry it, and it can winter under a breathable cover outdoors with no drama.
• Wrought iron and steel: rust is the enemy. Inspect for chips in the paint or powder coating; sand any rust spots to bare metal, apply rust-inhibiting primer, and touch up with matching paint before storage.
• Wax the frames (automotive paste wax works) for an extra moisture barrier on iron and steel pieces.
• Store iron and steel under cover or indoors if possible. If they must stay out, breathable covers are essential — covers that trap condensation against the metal accelerate rust.
• Check the feet and glides — replace missing plastic glides so bare metal does not sit in meltwater.

Wicker and Rattan: Natural vs. Resin

• Natural wicker/rattan: the most winter-fragile. It absorbs moisture, can mold, and becomes brittle in prolonged cold. Bring natural wicker indoors (garage, basement, shed) — it should not overwinter outside, even covered.
• Resin (all-weather) wicker: far tougher. Clean it, let it dry, and it can stay outside under a breathable cover. UV is actually its bigger enemy than cold.
• For both types, do not stack heavy items on woven seats during storage — prolonged pressure deforms the weave.
• Brush out debris from the weave before storage; trapped organic matter holds moisture.

Cushions and Fabrics: The Indoor Rule

• Bring all cushions indoors. No exceptions worth making — even “all-weather” cushions last far longer stored dry inside. Garages, basements, and sheds all work if dry.
• Wash first: remove covers (if removable) and launder per the care label. For non-removable covers, scrub with soap and water and air-dry fully.
• Dry completely before storing — this is the critical step. Even slightly damp cushions will mildew in storage. Give them a full day or two in sun and breeze.
• Store in breathable bags or bins — canvas storage bags or plastic bins with the lids cracked. Avoid vacuum-sealing thick cushions long-term; it can permanently compress the foam.
• Add cedar blocks or lavender sachets to storage bins to deter moths and mustiness.
• Umbrella canopies: clean, dry fully, close the umbrella, and store the whole thing indoors or in a protective bag.

Choosing the Right Covers

• Breathable covers win. Look for covers made from breathable woven polyester or similar with ventilation flaps. They shed rain and snow while letting moisture escape.
• Avoid cheap plastic tarps as primary covers — they trap condensation underneath, creating a damp microclimate that rots wood, rusts metal, and mildews everything.
• Size matters: covers should fit snugly enough not to catch wind but loosely enough for airflow. Measure your furniture; “universal” sizes often disappoint.
• Secure them: use the built-in drawstrings, buckles, or bungee cords. A cover that blows off in January helps nobody.
• Elevate covers slightly where possible (a beach ball or bucket under a table cover) so water and snow shed off instead of pooling.

Where to Store: Ranking Your Options

1. Best: indoors — garage, shed, or basement. Dry, out of wind, protected from freeze-thaw. This is where cushions, natural wicker, and anything precious should go.
2. Good: covered outdoor with breathable covers — under a patio roof, deck overhang, or quality furniture covers. Fine for aluminum, resin wicker, and sealed wood.
3. Acceptable: open patio with well-secured breathable covers — for the toughest pieces only (aluminum, resin wicker). Anchor everything against winter winds.
4. Avoid: directly on soil or grass — moisture wicks up relentlessly. Always use a hard surface, deck, or at minimum concrete blocks.

If space is tight, many pieces can be safely stacked (chairs) or stood on end — just pad contact points with old towels to prevent scratching.

What NOT to Do

• Do not store anything damp — the single biggest storage mistake.
• Do not wrap furniture in non-breathable plastic sheeting or tarps.
• Do not leave cushions out “just for one more week” once freezing nights begin.
• Do not drag furniture across the patio to storage — lift it, or use furniture sliders, to avoid scratching frames and tearing covers later.
• Do not forget the umbrella base — drain any water from weighted bases (sand/water-filled) so they do not crack when the water freezes and expands.

Spring Reopening Checklist

When warm weather returns, reverse the process:

• ☐ Uncover and inspect everything for winter damage, mildew, or pests that nested in storage.
• ☐ Wash all pieces again — storage dust and any mildew spots come off with soap and water.
• ☐ Re-tighten bolts (temperature cycling loosens hardware) and touch up any paint chips.
• ☐ Bring out cushions, ideally on a sunny day so any storage mustiness airs out.
• ☐ Re-oil wood if you maintain an oiled finish.
• ☐ Check umbrella mechanisms and bases before the first windy spring day.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I leave patio furniture outside all winter if it is covered?

It depends on the material. Aluminum and resin wicker handle covered outdoor storage well. Wood (especially acacia/eucalyptus), natural wicker, steel, and all cushions do much better indoors or in a shed.

Are expensive furniture covers worth it over cheap tarps?

Yes — this is exactly where the price difference pays off. Breathable, fitted covers with vents prevent the condensation damage that cheap plastic tarps cause. A tarp can do more harm than no cover at all for some materials.

How do I prevent mildew on stored cushions?

Clean them, dry them completely (the critical step), store in a dry place in breathable containers, and add moisture absorbers or cedar blocks. Never store even slightly damp cushions.

Should I store my grill the same way?

Grills follow similar principles: clean thoroughly (especially grease, which goes rancid and attracts pests), disconnect and properly store propane tanks outdoors upright (never indoors), and cover with a breathable grill cover.

What about a fire pit?

Remove ash (it holds moisture and corrodes metal), clean it, and cover with a breathable cover or store under shelter. Cover or cap any gas fire pit burner to keep water out of the gas lines.

When should I bring everything back out?

After the last frost date for your area and when nighttime temperatures are reliably above freezing. There is no prize for rushing — a late cold snap punishes uncovered wood and cushions just as it would have in fall.

Material-by-Material Quick Reference

• Teak / cedar: clean → oil or leave natural → breathable cover or ventilated indoor storage → keep off bare ground.
• Acacia / eucalyptus: clean → seal or oil → covered or indoor storage preferred → keep off bare ground.
• Powder-coated aluminum: clean → dry → breathable cover outdoors is fine.
• Wrought iron / steel: clean → treat rust spots + touch up paint → wax → indoor or covered storage → breathable cover only.
• Natural wicker / rattan: clean → dry thoroughly → indoors only → do not stack heavy items on it.
• Resin wicker: clean → dry → breathable cover outdoors is fine.
• Cushions / fabrics: wash → dry completely → breathable bags/bins indoors → cedar blocks for freshness.
• Umbrellas: clean canopy → dry fully → close and bag → store indoors; drain water from the base.

Dealing With Mildew and Stains Found in Storage

If you uncover mildew in spring (or discover it while storing):

• On cushions: scrub with a solution of mild soap and water; for stubborn mildew, a diluted white vinegar solution or an oxygen-based bleach (not chlorine bleach on colored fabrics) usually works. Rinse thoroughly and sun-dry.
• On wood: scrub with soap and water using a soft brush; for gray mildew staining on teak, a dedicated teak cleaner restores the surface.
• On metal and resin wicker: soap and water plus a soft brush handle most mildew; rinse well and dry.
• Prevention beats cure: every mildew problem traces back to moisture — the dry-before-storing rule from earlier is the whole game.

Budget Storage Hacks

• Old bedsheets and moving blankets work as breathable covers for furniture stored in a garage or shed — free and effective indoors.
• Shower curtain liners are NOT a substitute for breathable covers outdoors (they trap moisture), but they work as dust covers indoors.
• Pool noodles slit lengthwise pad stacked chair legs and prevent scratching for pennies.
• Pallets (free from many stores) keep furniture off damp garage floors.
• Label your hardware: a zip-lock bag taped under each table with its bolts saves the spring “which bolt goes where” puzzle.

Related Guides

• Fall Home Maintenance Checklist (32 Tasks)
• Summer Home Maintenance Checklist